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Rose Care

Ena Harkness


RUST

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Credit: Clemson University

Rose rust is a disease caused by the fungi Phragmidium species. It causes orange-colored spots to appear on stems and leaves. When rust is severe, an orange dust-like substance may be present on the plant surface and on the ground below the plant. Rose rust attacks all plant parts except the roots and petals. Severely diseased leaves of highly susceptible cultivars may turn yellow or brown and drop.

Prevention and Treatment: Provide good air circulation. Do not plant roses in crowded areas and prune plants to keep the centers open. Water plants before noon and avoid getting the leaves wet. Remove and destroy diseased leaves and plants. Fungicides containing either ferbam, mancozeb, propiconazole or lime sulfur are recommended for homeowner use. Apply all chemicals according to directions on the label.


Mancozeb 37.0%

A broad spectrum fungicide for use on a wide variety of vegetables and ornamentals. Controls leaf spot, downy mildew, blights, anthracnose, botrytis and other listed diseases. Use 2-5 teaspoons/g. Restricted in ME. Not for sale in NYS.

Bayer Advanced™ Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs Concentrate

This product provides 3-way action: it kills existing fungi, forms a protective barrier on the outside of the plant and is absorbed into the plant to keep on protecting regardless of weather conditions.



Black Spot on Roses

Symptoms of black spot on rose leaves. Closeup of black spot symptoms on rose leaf Closeup of black spot symptoms on rose leaf


Daconil(chlorothalonil)

Clearys 336

Bayer Advanced™ Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs Concentrate

This product provides 3-way action: it kills existing fungi, forms a protective barrier on the outside of the plant and is absorbed into the plant to keep on protecting regardless of weather conditions.



Verticillium Wilt

Verticillium wilt is caused by the soil-borne fungus Verticillium albo-atrum. The disease becomes evident when temperatures are hot (late June to August). Initial symptoms begin with the wilting of new leaves and yellowing of older leaves. Permanent wilting occurs after a few days and leaves eventually turn brown and die. This disease can be confused with other problems such as insect infestations or environmentally related causes. Make sure Verticillium wilt is positively identified by an appropriate plant disease clinic before following control measures. To control the disease, remove and destroy infected plants. Because the fungus responsible for the disease survives in the soil, do not plant roses in contaminated soil for three years or longer.



Stem cankers

appear as small lesions on the woody tissue of canes. Results are poor growth of the affected area and eventual death of the cane. Stem canker is caused by several different parasitic fungi entering the stem through wounds or dying tissue. Brand canker appears as black sooty patches that develop during winter on climbing roses and those covered for winter protection. Cracking bark is common. The best control is pruning out the infected canes. Brown canker appears as light brown lesions with deep purple margins. This fungus will also attack foliage and buds on some cultivars. It is not common if a fungicide program is followed for control of other rose diseases. Stem canker appears as black spots, often at the point of mechanical damage. It is somewhat reddish and becomes brown, sunken and cracked with age. Cankers often appear on plants weakened due to black spot.

The most effective means of preventing the problem is to maintain a preventive fungicide spray program to control other fungal diseases. Should cankers appear, prune the cane well below the canker with clean pruning shears.











Controlling Stem Canker is a combination of proper pruning procedures and appropriate fungicides.

  1. As stated above, keep canes from crossing each other. Even if they appear not to be touching, wind and growth can change that condition.
  2. Pruning out dead or dying wood during your regular visits to the garden is also essential.
  3. And when planting new plants, use care not to damage canes. If you should damage a cane seriously, consider removing the cane entirely.
  4. Likewise, when pruning or deadheading, cut back to the node. Failing to do so, results in dieback to the node, and the resulting dead wood is an invitation to canker spores.
  5. As for fungicides, those that control black spot on ornamentals will also control canker.

Daconil(chlorothalonil)

Clearys 336


BOTRYTIS BLIGHT


Photo

Rose petals infected with Botrytis blight.

Photo by Jack

Rose flowers and buds are often infected with the gray-brown fuzzy growth of the gray mold fungus Botrytis cinerea. The fungus is most active when temperatures are 62 to 72 °F and conditions are moist. Infected canes have discolored, sunken areas (cankers) and dieback that can extend down the stem from the flowers. Diseased flower petals have small, light-colored spots surrounded by reddish halos, which can quickly expand into large, irregular blotches. Buds fail to open and often droop. Thrips can cause similar damage to half-open buds, so inspect plants carefully.

Prevention and Treatment: Keeping the area clean is more important than anything else. Collect and discard all fading flower blossoms and leaves. Provide good air circulation, and avoid wetting the leaves when watering. Disease easily develops on canes that have been damaged and canes that are kept too wet by a manure mulch or wet leaves. If chemical control is necessary, fungicides containing captan, chlorothalonil or neem oil (clarified hydrophobic extract) are available for homeowner use. Use neem oil on a trial basis, especially on open blooms and during hot weather. On dormant bushes PCNB or copper sulfate pentahydrate can be used. Apply all chemicals according to directions on the label.

Daconil(chlorothalonil)

captan

PCNB(Terraclor)

Neem Oil A broad spectrum insecticide, miticide, and fungicide that controls numerous diseases as well as insects. Use on vegetables, fruit trees, ornamentals, etc. A naturally occurring compound made from the neem tree that is grown in India.

Bayer Advanced™ Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs Concentrate

This product provides 3-way action: it kills existing fungi, forms a protective barrier on the outside of the plant and is absorbed into the plant to keep on protecting regardless of weather conditions.



ROSE MOSAIC

Rose mosaic virus
Clemson University
 
Clemson University Extension Fact Sheet, Rose Diseases
 

The symptoms associated with Rose mosaic virus (RMV) are highly variable. Yellow wavy line patterns, ring spots and mottles in leaves will occur on some varieties of roses sometime during the growing season. In general, symptoms are most evident in the spring. Yellow net and mosaic symptoms on the leaves are also associated with RMV and detract from the overall quality of the plant. Infected plants become weakened and are more sensitive to damage caused by other stresses, such as drought or low temperatures.

Prevention and Treatment: Virus-infected plants cannot be saved. Rose mosaic spreads slowly, if at all, in established rose plantings through root grafts. Infected plants should be removed from highly prized plantings and destroyed. Buy only healthy plants from a reputable dealer; especially avoid purchasing plants showing any mosaic symptoms.


Powdery Mildew



This fungus forms a powdery white or grayish coating on the upper surface of young leaves and sometimes on the buds. Infected leaves crumple and become distorted.

Unlike blackspot, wet conditions actually inhibit the development of powdery mildew. It can not reproduce in water. It thrives during high humidity but forms on dry leaves. Warm dry days, cool dry nights are ideal for powdery mildew.

One of the best ways to avoid powdery mildew is to keep things as airy as possible. Roses planted too close to a wall may not get enough airflow. Prune away crossing canes and open the center of the bush to allow sunlight and airflow.

Bayer Advanced™ Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs Concentrate

This product provides 3-way action: it kills existing fungi, forms a protective barrier on the outside of the plant and is absorbed into the plant to keep on protecting regardless of weather conditions.

Also, spraying the foliage with a mixture of 1 T. baking soda per 1 gallon of water can be effective.


Bill Chandler


Aphids



Aphids has a close working relationship with ants. TalstarOne is the best choice for this insect problem and many more.



Talstar
(This is a great product for insect control).



Bifen Granular Insecticide Bifen Liquid Insecticide

You can also use Generic brand Bifen and save money. It has the same ingredient as Talstar One.





Thrips


Flower thrips are almost microscopic insects, only a 16th of an inch long, whose larvae, or caterpillar stage, bore into the unopened rose flower, damaged the petals, and then lap up the juices. The result is misshapen, brown stained petals, or like this one, a water marked petal, or one with holes in it. Sometimes the flower buds don't open. I've seen flower thrips in daylilies too. The best way to control is by using Delta Dust. Growing a good rose demands a good deal of effort and even hard work on your part.

1-Control the thrips then follow these rose care tips to bring the plants back into bloom 2-Remove all damaged or declining flowers..

3-Apply monthly feedings of a rose fertilizer or use a slow release product as instructed on the label.

4-Ensure adequate moisture by watering when the surface inch begins to dry to the touch.

5-Control black spot a disease with fungicides as needed

deltadust
DeltaDust
is the world’s first and only 100% waterproof insecticide dust, so it works in the wet and damp places that insects love. Nothing short of running water will disturb it, making DeltaDust an ideal crack and crevice treatment.


Talstar
(This is a great product for insect control). Bifen Granular Insecticide Bifen Liquid Insecticide

You can also use Generic brand Bifen and save money. It has the same ingredient as Talstar One.







Organic Insect Control

Leafminer.jpg Monterey Garden Insect Spray

Monterey Aliette


Rose Chafer


Rose ChafersLife History -Rose chafers appear in late May or early June and feed on roses, peonies, and sometimes iris and other flowers. They also feed on grapes and at times may damage elms, birches, and other trees severely. The adults live for about 4 to 6 weeks. Eggs are laid about 15 cm deep in sandy or grassland soil, and they hatch in 1 to 3 weeks. The eggs are laid in groups of 6 to 40, but each egg is deposited in a separate cavity. The larvae feed on the roots of turf and ornamental plants. They apparently move down into the soil for moisture. The larvae spend the winter deep in the soil. In early spring the grubs migrate upward and pupate in early May in earthen cells. There is one generation per year.

Chemical: Most foliage and flowers can be protected by spraying or dusting. However, insecticides will not fully protect roses, which unfold too fast and are especially attractive to beetles. When beetles are most abundant on roses, nip the buds and spray the bushes to protect the leaves. When the beetles become scarce, let the bushes bloom again. Timeliness and thoroughness of application are very important. Begin treatment as soon as beetles appear, before damage is done. Japanese beetle traps are of no value. with Sevin-10 Bug Killer --do not apply when wet or damp-- dust applied with dust mizer.

Use insecticide products only on plants for which they are indicated.

Hazard to honeybees: Some dust or sprays are highly toxic to honeybees. If application is necessary during the bloom period, do not apply during hours when bees are visiting the flowers. If larger than yard and garden plantings are to be treated, you may want to contact nearby beekeepers, in advance, so that they can protect their colonies.

Larvae or grubs
Rose chafer larvae may damage grass and nursery crop roots sufficiently to require controlling.

Cultural: The pupa in its earthen cell is extremely sensitive to disturbances. High pupal mortality can be achieved by plowing, cultivating, or harrowing to a depth of 3 inches or more. This should be done in late May or early June for best results. Keeping heaviest soils in grass and sod and using sandier soils for cultivated crops reduces rose chafer numbers. Keep all weeds and grasses controlled in grape arbors.

Chemical: Rose chafer grubs in lawns and grassy areas can be controlled with one of several insecticides. Granulated formulations are the easiest to disperse uniformly and are less likely to drift to other areas during application. Most may be applied with a fertilizer spreader. Emulsifiable concentrates (EC) or wettable powders (WP) mixed with water may be sprayed on. After application, water the insecticide in, avoiding puddling. Treated turf may be mowed, watered, and fertilized as usual. Heavy thatch may reduce effectiveness.




Photo

Landscape rose with chlorotic, underdeveloped blossom and puckered needlelike shoots caused by glyphosate (Roundup) herbicide.

Photo by Jack Kelly Clark.

Excellent reading about roses at www.mc.edu/campus/users/nettles/rofaq/rofaq-faq.html#FAQ_qa_aphids



Organic fertilizers...
  • can improve the quality of the soil by contributing organic matter.

  • contribute the micro-nutrients which contribute to strong and healthy growth.

  • are an excellent way to add specific nutrients particular to a plant's needs.

Lovely plants are evidence of excellent soil structure; there is no greater gift you can give to your plants (and yourself) than the addition of compost to the soil. Compost helps sticky, clay soils drain better. Compost helps sandy soils hold moisture better. Compost adds vital nutrients to the soil, especially the secondary macronutrients and micronutrients. Compost provides a haven for earthworms and other organisms which help break down the soil.

Organic Fertilizers Rose Calendar


January

Spray dormant oil (or Horticulture oil) on euonymus, azalea, pieris, boxwood and grapes to control scale, spider mites, lace bug, leaf minor and other over-wintering insect pests. When applying the oil, the ambient temperature must be at least 40° F but 50° F is preferred.


March

Leaf spot on photinia, powdery mildew on shady lawns, roses, dogwoods and lilac, petal blight on azaleas, anthracnose on dogwoods, shot fungus (those big brown rimmed holes) on hosta and apple-cedar rust on apple trees are just a sample of what you may face. Check your landscape periodically for signs of disease. A variety of products such as 'Bayleton' or copper based fungicides are available to control disease. They will work longer and more effectively if applied with a 'spreader sticker' like 'Wilt Pruf' mixed in the solution. 'Spreader' means that the fungicide will coat the leaf rather than beading up in small areas. 'Sticker' means that the product will remain on the leaf through at least some rain.


April

Roses. Prune all dead wood off roses. The harder the winter was the harder you trim. Remove suckers growing from below the graft union (large bulge at bottom of main stems) because these shoots will not be true to rose type. Trim tea roses to 18''. Fertilize with 'Sta-Green Rose Food,' 'Agriform' or 'Osmocote' and add lime if you have not done so in the last 6-9 months.


May

ROSES: The rose fancier in our area must be dedicated if he or she doesn't want to be viewing leafless branches most of the summer. Yellow leaf and black spot are endemic to hot, humid climates. Selecting rose varieties known for disease resistance is your first, best step. 'Flower Carpet' shrub roses are very resistant to fungal diseases. It is difficult to resist the beauty of hybrid tea roses despite disease potential. If you see a leaf with black spots, pick it off and throw it in the trash. Any fallen leaves should be removed as well. Disease spreads by wind and water. New leaves will grow where you pluck out the old. At some point you will need to begin spraying with a good fungicide. Many combine both systemic and topical fungicides with water and a spreader-sticker agent and spray every ten days during the growing season.

Pruning roses is not difficult though it can be painful. As a rose flower fades, prune back its shoot to the upper crotch of a five leaved leaflet. Prune out spindly branches and one of any two branches that 'cross' or touch each other. Good air circulation helps prevent disease. Prune to encourage growth out from the center of the plant.

Fertilize with a good, slow release woody plant fertilizer. Repeat blooming roses work harder than most shrubs and need more food!


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